A Quaker Village and the University Way

Thursday 8 December - Jordans, Buckinghamshire.

After a mild autumn it seemed a good idea to book a few days away, Jordans being my first destination. A sudden change in the weather brought a headwind as I set off in the general direction of Dunstable. After the village of Streatley I begin to ascend 'Sharpenhoe Clappers'. Up this hill I am going like anything but the clappers. In fact, I have to admit to pushing the bike. Not that the hill is to steep to ride, but with a fierce headwind progress is so slow I am being blown all over the road, it is safer to walk.

Dunstable Downs is my next challenge  (more 'ups' called 'downs') but here I have a surfaced cycle track away from the road. At the top of the climb the wind is so strong I am blown onto the grass on several occasions - I'm glad it is not blowing towards the cliff edge. The visitor centre at the top of the downs, at just over half distance, is a good place to stop and eat.

From here onwards the route is via wooded country lanes with not a lot to see but plenty of protection from the winds. The descent into Berkhampstead is welcome, not so the steep climb out, by which time the rain has started and I need to put the lights on. I stop to read my map in the village of Flaunden and lean the bike on a street sign for Hogpits Bottom. I am at the foot of a hill so I suppose the top of the hill lends itself to 'Upper Hogpits Bottom' jokes.

Jordans youth hostel is a welcome sight, not that I can see it in the dark but I am soon comfortable in front of the wood burning stove.

Friday 9 December - Oxford.

 Jordans Youth Hostel

The village of Jordans, in Buckinghamshire has close associations with the Quaker religion, I believe the hostel and grounds are leased from the Quaker Friends, but then again I may be wrong on this. Area's close to my previous home in North Nottinghamshire also have close links with this following, several families who sailed on the Mayflower coming from that area. Part of the timbers in Jordans village hall are reported to have come from the Mayflower. I was unaware that the boat sailed back from America, I always thought once it was there that was it. It is also stated that Ozzi and Sharon Osbourne have a mansion in Jordans, but I see nothing of them. Most of the houses around seem to be mansions, if there was less spent on property and more on repairing the road it would make for ideal roads.

My journey to-day is not very far, around 40 miles I think. The down-side is that I have to cross the Chiltern Hills from one side to the other and the climbing starts almost straight away with the Chiltren Hundreds and after Marlow the Chiltern's themselves. The hills are more long and steady than short and steep. High in the hills at the village of Northend the bus shelter and road sign are both decked out in Christmas decorations. I head into Christmas Common, it's early December and I certainly agree, Christmas is comin'. I am not sure what the birds of prey are that live around this area but there are lots of them, they are very large and slowly riding by give me a good chance to look at them - I have since found out they are Red Kites.

In Christmas Common a left turn gives me a view of nothing but sky, then a view over Oxfordshire. I may be able to see Oxford itself but with a cross-headwind and a greasy, pot-holed road to contend with I do not get the chance to look as I make the most of the two miles of downhill.

Oxford is crowded, with cars at a standstill and Christmas shoppers out in large numbers.

Saturday 10 December - The University Way.

Not the start of Sustrans Route 51 from Oxford to Cambridge, but outside Oxford railway station. A much better picture than the unmarked 'official' start of the route on a street corner a quarter of a mile further on and outside the Job Centre.

This morning the city is quiet as I leave. Passing many fine buildings along the way it is not long before I am rattling and banging my way along the pot-holed back streets of Oxford giving me a chance to see parts of the city I would not normally visit and perhaps some parts I would not want to visit.

It is a cold, frosty morning and I stop for a chat to a Sustrans volunteer sweeping leaves and glass from the route in Kidlington - he refuses to go all the way to Bedford with me doing the same job.

The route is well waymarked and the map stays in my pocket most of the way. With a break for food in Bicester the paths and roads are still frost covered. There is a very stiff climb out of Bicester, at the top of which I pass a high-security area, double fenced and barbed wire. Maybe it is or was a prison, nothing to say, no 'vacancies' signs to be seen.

The route into Milton Keynes

The network of city cycle paths takes me towards the shopping centre of Milton Keynes where Red Bull Racing, who are based in the city, have a promotional event blocking some of the roads, I make steady progress through it all.

From here it is out through the parks, where some of the cycle paths are more bumpy than the green lanes I rode earlier in the day, before emerging onto the road through Salford and Cranfield. Here the road turns right onto what the route description advises is 'suitable for mountain bikes only'. Having ridden this section previously I know it is about a quarter of a mile of gravel and half a mile of rolled stone and all fairly smooth. By the time I arrive darkness is beginning to fall and so is the temperature, if I puncture on this section I will be making the repair in the cold and dark. With this in mind, after almost 60-miles on the route I decide to give it up, head for home (another 13 and a half miles by road) and return in daylight to complete the next section and then on to Cambridge.

Monday 12 December - Cranfield to Chawston.
With half a day to spare in my busy retirement schedule I return to Cranfield to ride another section of the route. With only tools and a camera to carry I image progress will be a little swifter than when carrying a full load. This illusion is soon shattered when I find myself fighting into a headwind, yet again, the ascent of Milton Hill into Cranfield does not help either. At this stage I realise I have forgotten to bring my front light and estimate I have another two hours of daylight before I become 'illegal'.
Picking up the route and ridding the 'off-road' section I come out onto country lanes with no problems in the puncture department. The headwind is now a tailwind as I head towards Marston Moretaine and pass around the edge of the country park. After six miles of riding I return to the main road about two miles from were I started the route.
A mix of main and minor roads takes me to the outskirts of Bedford, at which point the route follows minor roads through housing estates and back allies before taking me into the town along the side of the river Great Ouse.

The river at Bedford is usually graced with swans, to-day it is seagulls!
From here the path follows an old railway line through Willington before it turns off to Great Barford.

As I reach the bridge at Great Barford daylight is beginning to fade and yes, I do ride home in the dark with no front light. The route now crosses the bridge before passing through the village, on to Roxton and then a left turn to Chawston were my route ends for to-day.
So far I have covered just under 83 miles on the University Way and have another days riding to get me to the finish in Cambridge and then back home - or half a day and a night in Cambridge. Before I can do all that I have a room to decorate before Christmas!
Now, just eight miles to get home - in the dark.

Tuesday 28 February - St Neots and Hail Weston
Decorating, Christmas and a few weeks in Cyprus are now behind me and it is time to think again about completing this route and with a 30-mile ride planned for this morning it is an ideal chance to cover a little bit more. Although the roads are wet from overnight rain the day is very mild considering it is almost the last day of February.
From Chawston I take the short ride through quiet lanes to Eaton Socon where a cycle path behind the church takes me straight to St Neots. Like a lot of Sustrans routes this one does not go into the town but 'clips the corner'. It is a pity really as St Neots has an attractive riverside walk and an abundance of places to buy food and drink.
From here cycle paths take me through an estate of private houses - do not be fooled, there are some short but stiff climbs to negotiate.
Back on the roads again I travel over the A1 and on to the village of Hail Weston where again the roads are quiet, Sustrans have done a good job. After 8.62 miles on the University Way to-day I head for home. The Royal Oak in Hail Weston, at twenty minutes past nine in the morning is not open so no drinks there, just 15 miles to home and yes, once more it is a headwind all the way!
89.76 'University Way' miles covered so far. I have an overnight stay in Cambridge booked for early May in order to finish this route before I travel on to Bungay in Suffolk to continue along the North Sea Cycle Route (see June 2011 for details of the NSCR so far).

Wednesday 18 April - Godmanchester
The idea behind riding this section is to cover the off-road sections between Hail Weston and Grafham Water without a load on the bike, the reasoning being there is less chance of a puncture - and one would be easier to mend not having to take luggage off. I'm not sure why I chose to-day to ride, having ridden 36 miles in the rain yesterday. The rain eventually stopped but not so the cold wind.
From the village of Hail Weston, along the ominously-named 'Ford Lane' I decide, based on past experience, to walk over the bridge and not ride through the ford. Shortly after this the route follows farm tracks, passing Little Paxton Wood and on towards Grafham Water. A very pleasant ride through open countryside.
Around Grafham Water the 'off-road' alternates between rolled stone and tarmac path, dipping to the bottom of the dam wall to avoid riders being 'hooked' by the back-cast from fishermen - there are none to-day.
From Grafham it's quiet lanes through Brampton to Huntingdon where a network of cycle paths avoids the town centre and dips under the main roads to take me into Godmanchester.
Almost 13-miles covered to-day, 102.51 in total since Oxford, 21 still to ride - on 3 May.

Thursday 3 May - Cambridge
For a day in May it is quite cold, but at least the rain has stopped.
My route takes me along the Pathfinder Long Distance Walking Path and on towards Hemingford Abbots and Hemingford Grey, a route I know well having ridden it several times. Shortly after this point the on-line mapping indicates I should follow the St. Ives to Cambridge guided busway. The waymarkers on the ground tell a different story and I spend a pleasant if sometimes bumpy afternoon passing through several delightful villages before reaching Cambridge. Here I face a dilemma - what point do I call the end of the 'University Way'? I have been following Sustrans NCN Route 51 from Oxford but that continues on from Cambridge to Harwich (I will no doubt meet up with it again in a few days time as I continue on the next section of 'The North Sea Cycle Route' and arrive at Harwich). For now I call the end the bridge over the River Cam on Magdalene Street, for no better reason than the location makes a pleasant picture that typifies Cambridge - and it has just started to rain so I can find a bit of shelter!

On the journey from Oxford to Cambridge I have recorded 123.08 miles, if I had stopped at the other side of the bridge it would probably have been 123 miles exactly.
Now, in the rain, off to Cambridge youth hostel and a bed for the night.

Surrey and the Sussex Coast

26 July - Holmbury St Mary

After a short train journey I arrive at London St Pancras station where, on the basis that he is not going anywhere for a while Sir John Betjamin looks after my bike.

The other interesting (and controversial) bronze sculpture at St Pancras is 'The Meeting Place' by Paul Day. It is nine metres high and represents an English boy meeting a French girl. The size has upset several people, but I like it! Around the plinth are several small images depicting scenes of a railway and travel theme. One shows a lady with a dog. In towns and cities around the world it is often considered lucky to rub the foot, hand or other body part of a particular statue - the dog already has a bright nose - is it acquiring a mythical air? As I come out of the station and prepare to ride down the cobbled cab road I am approached by four young Koreans, they are videoing and interviewing travellers who enter and leave the station. I have my 15 minutes of fame, being asked questions about my journey, why I enjoy cycling, the safety of UK roads and many other topics. For my reward I am given a Korean lucky charm - I hope it works. All part of the unexpected experience of travel.
I leave the station to ride through central London, over Waterloo Bridge and look out for signs to take me to Clapham Common, I find one for the 'London Cycle Network, Route 3'. I am unaware that London has such a network, but what a great route it proves to be, passing parks, industrial units under railway arches, through streets of houses from two-storey terraced to five-storey villa's, untended to neatly kept front gardens, in need of repair to fully restored, the whole spectrum is here. I pass the Oval cricket ground, through the grounds of a private block of flats and arrive at Clapham Common. What a relaxing start to the ride this is, an alternative site-seeing tour of London, unknown to other visitors - London traffic, what London traffic? It is almost car-free. From here to Leatherhead I plan to use the main A24 road, something I am not looking forward to. On this road I find myself on the controversial 'Cycle Superhighway' Route 7. This is designed to take travellers from A-to-B as quickly as possible. Unfortunately it is not always a segregated lane and as it passes bus stops or other narrow pinch-points it is marked with only a number on the road. It also passes through parking bays so in practice vanishes under parked cars. Perhaps 'Designer CS' should talk to 'Designer LCN' for a few ideas. Still the Lard Mayor Boris Mop-head likes it and apparently sees no problems. It's not a bad ride all-in-all but as I pass through Leatherhead the North Downs start to kick-in and the hills begin. Not steep hills (yet) but long, leg tiring drags. Passing through Fetcham I turn through Effingham and join a single-track road towards Holmbury. Although it is a narrow road through woodland it is the land of enthusiastically driven 'Chelsea Tractors' narrow roads and lots of dead rabbits. Considering a lot of the road has two metre high earth banks on either side tyre tracks often go half-way up the banks.
Holmbury St Mary hostel is a wonderful period-piece. Opened in 1935 it was the YHA's first purpose-built hostel. I read a facsimile of a newspaper report from the opening that says '. . . built with a flat roof to facilitate sun bathing, a swimming pool may be added at a future date'. It is not clear if this will be on the roof or in the grounds but either way it has not yet materialized. Apart from changing the original steel window frames for plastic double glazed units the building retains many features from the original opening, including a  hand-painted frieze around the dinning room walls showing a sketch of the building, the architect, the client, the builder and his apprentice, plus local scenes from the period through to the first hostelers arriving. A wonderful piece of work.

Holmbury St Mary Youth Hostel

27 July - Eastbourne 

Now well into the North Downs I begin climbing as soon as I am on the road this morning. The road is wider than yesterday but still takes me through woodland with high earth banks on either side, meaning not a lot to see. I skirt the foot of Leith Hill and join the main Dorking to Worthing road. There is a cycle path going left – I am going right, but for only a short stretch before turning off again into the lanes to Rusper and Faygate. At last I am out of the woodland and on open roads with views across the downs. Crossing the Crawley to Horsham main road I start the long drag of a hill to Colgate, this is one to get my teeth into. I am soon into the town of Balcombe.

By now I am heading for the North Weald and the views are extensive as I wind my way to Sheffield Park and take a break at the preserved Bluebell Steam Railway. At this point I imagine I am over the longest part of to-day's ride but a look at the map tells me, as the crow flies, I am only half way, let’s hope the crow can do better.

Over the Low Weald – is that a bit of a contradiction of terms? My route takes me close to Glynebourne at which point I begin to see vertical cliff faces ahead of me – the South Downs, to make my way towards Alfriston. When I arrive it is solid with traffic (I had forgotten the narrow roads) so I cut through the back streets and out of the other side without seeing the village. I had also forgotten the steep climb out towards the coast. I spot the Lillington white horse cut into the cliff side, before long I am level and then looking down on it. From here the run down to Seaford is a welcome relief. Turning left to Eastbourne I join the A259 main road, which is busy, not particularly wide are very, very hilly. Flying downhill towards Friston at over 30mph I clip a pothole and puncture the back tyre. On this occasion I am lucky it is the back tyre, had it been the front I would most likely have lost control, and probably a lot of skin from my knees and elbows. Having replaced the inner tube I spot a cycle trail sign for Eastbourne, this seems a better option than the big hill I am facing. The first quarter of a mile of this trail is on concrete slabs and is very good, this then changes to rough stone and before long I find myself on a pebble beach – I give up and return to the road and the stiff climb. This goes on and on before a rush down to East Dean and the climb out before dropping down to Eastbourne, at which point I almost miss the hostel part-way down the hill.

Eastbourne Youth Hostel

This is a new-build hostel sitting high above the road, what I take for a channel to help push the bike up the steps turns out to be a stair lift – I am tempted to use it. Before I book-in for the night I check the details of to-days ride on my cycle computer, it tells me I have reached a maximum speed of 65.9mph – I think it best to discount this figure.  After an evening meal I consult the map for tomorrows ride to Littlehampton. When I planned the route I imagined tomorrow would be a steady day alone the coast road. I now know I have to re-trace part of to-day's route and have three big hills to get over in the first six miles.

28 July – Littlehampton 

Here I go, hills right from the front door. After 40 minutes riding and six miles covered I am over the worst of it, not quite as bad as I imagined. On the last climb I spot the pothole that got me yesterday. The road levels out towards Newhaven with views over the sea and the ferries to Dieppe. The final run into the town is along a cycle path away from the road and very pleasant it is as well. At the entrance to the River Ouse is a large metal sculpture of a stylised bird sitting atop a breakwater. Is it a cormorant? No matter, whatever it is it looks good. At Peacehaven I stop for a drink and food on a hill-top overlooking Brighton before I drift downhill and along the sea front cycle path.
I note the pier has not been repaired.

As I am leaving the town I realise this is my second visit to Brighton, both by bike and I have still not seen the Royal Pavilion.
On reaching Shoreham I spot a house painted pink, with two pink coloured cars standing on the drive, both with registration letters PNK – it seems they perhaps like the colour.
Worthing is very busy with holiday makers, most seem to be sitting eating fish and chips and there are long queues at the shops selling them. I take a break in the park at Ferring before pressing on for the final five miles. In so doing I pass an ‘different’ front garden, it is always interesting to look at what people do with them!

In Littlehampton I visit ‘The Dutch Bicycle Company’, a shop (as the name suggets) selling only Dutch bicycles, very nice they are as well, ideal for sit-up-and-beg comfortable riding around town. The hostel here, whilst not overlooking the sea is only one road back and is the top floor above the Look and Sea visitors centre and Viewing Tower. At 4.15 I discover the visitor centre closes at 4 o’clock. I settle for a look at the town and something to eat.

29 July – Tanners Hatch

An early start sees me making my way out of town via the South Coast Cycle Route in the direction of Arundel and the climb out over the South Downs towards Houghton. Why do the Downs always go up? Who gave them this name? Although there is still a lot of mist sitting on the hills the run down through Houghton to Amberley is very nice. As I ride uphill to the village of Storrington the electronic 30mph speed limit sign flashes on, perhaps it is connected to my cycle computer from Wednesday? (Or maybe the car behind). Storrington is so picturesque I stop for a drink and a snack. Because of my method of travel I carry my own drinks and snacks, as I sit there I am very conscious that by doing so I am passing through these towns and villages but not contributing anything to the local economy.

The road rolls on and I am out of the South Downs, the views are good, the villages interesting and I really enjoy the ride, meeting and riding with several other cyclists along the way. I reach Billingshurst there are signs demanding ‘Save Bilingshurst’ but they do not say from what – is the town going to vanish? I  am into the Low Weald again, no matter, the hills are still here but the country lanes are quite and before long I am across the Guildford to Horsham road and passing through the pretty villages of Ellen’s Green, Ewhurst and Forest Green (there is a lot of greenery around here). I turn right along a single track road towards the dreaded Leith Hill, being warned by horse riders that the road is very steep. Leith Hill at 965 feet above sea level is the second highest point in Surrey and in 2012 will form part of the Olympic cycling road race circuit. At the top of the hill is an 18th century gothic tower, built to raise the height to 1,000 feet. I see signs from the car park to the tower, via steep footpaths, I never make the tower but stop in Coldharbour for food before the downhill ride to Dorking. This results in another long uphill towards Ranmore and the National Trust’s Denbies Hill car park and viewing point. From here there really is a terrific view over the downs before I turn off onto a forest track to the hostel three quarters of a mile away. This is two converted cottages dating from 1642. If you are looking to ‘get away from it all’ this is the place to be. Within walking distance of the National Trust’s Polseden Lacey estate you could not ask for a more tranquil place. Facilities are basic but who cares in such a beautiful spot? Not quite cool enough for the log fire and we sit until late into the evening with the door open to the woods. I meet someone here who spends a long time telling me that I should not ride my proposed route over Box Hill tomorrow. It is much too hard a climb and my best route into London is to go back to Dorking and catch the train direct to the capital – not really the idea of a cycling holiday.

Tanners Hatch Youth Hostel

30 July – London

Three quarters of a mile of off-road forest track takes me back to the Denbies Hill view point this morning where I stop, take in the view and a sachet of energy gell in preparation for Box Hill. The alpine-like downhill run to Westhumble is good, if quite cooling, I am glad I kept a long sleeved jacket on. I had expected a more spectacular start to the climb of Box Hill but the rise in the road was good enough. Again this is part of the Olympic circuit for 2012. I do not find this such a hard climb as Leith Hill and I enjoy the ‘zig-zag road’ to the top – and still have plenty of gears to spare.

It is popular with cyclists and as a bonus the view is very good.

Riding down is not quite the white-knuckle ride I had expected, but takes me onto the main road to Kingswood, Sutton and into Morden to once again pick up Cycle Superhighway 7 to Clapham Common. My intention was to follow this all the way into London but Network 3 once again called and I use this to Waterloo Bridge. I arrive in London at 12-noon and as I am not booked on the train out until 4pm I find myself doing the ‘tourist circuit’. The crowds at the London Eye are solid, not a space to be had. I rode the Eye some years ago, it was much more quiet then and well worth the visit. The time to spare gives me a chance to ride along Fleet Street, a place I knew well the 1970’s, it is interesting to look at it now the newspapers have moved out. After doing as much as I could I was still at the station in plenty of time for the train.

With just over 272 miles covered I begin to plan my next trip.

A Bit About Me - Instead of My Profile

You will have to read this instead of my profile.

As a life-long cyclist and youth hostel enthusiast it seems very odd that having decided to retire my first few hostel visits were mainly by public transport and walking, although this was mainly due to time restraints, bad weather and not (at that time) having a bike suitable for more than a couple of days touring.

I took the decision to retire at the end of August 2010 and move from Nottinghamshire to Bedford, which I did over the bank holiday weekend - then on the following Tuesday immediately moved back to Nottinghamshire to help out my company, covering for staff on holiday. This resulted in me retiring on 3 September, 43 years to the day since my first day as an apprentice.

During early September I visited Sherringham and Hunstanton hostels. This gave me a chance, whilst at Sherringham, to visit the preserved North Norfolk Railway, which was running steam trains on the day of my visit.
Beware if visiting Sherringham - if you need to eat, do so early in the afternoon. This is the second time I have been caught out in this town, most of the eating places seem to close early, leaving a poor choice of fish-and-chip shops.
I also got to look in at the Norfolk Wildlife Trust site at Blakeney and to walk part of the Norfolk Coastal Path between Wells and Brancaster - great use of the bus pass to get on and off at will and also at no charge. Hunstanton hostel was due to close at the end of the season so this was possibly my last chance to visit. I generally do not like to see closures but in Hunstanton's case I will make an exception. It was looking rather sad and in need of repair - probably more costs than could be justified.

Shortly after I was off again to Saffron Walden, this time by bike and had an enjoyable ride through Cambridgeshire and north Essex.

Just prior to Christmas I had planned to ride to Cambridge and Bradwell hostels (on different occasions). Both turned out to be bus journeys due to heavy frost, ice and snow. I don't mind bike riding in these conditions, it's the falling off I don't like, it tends to hurt.

Talk to anyone who retires and they will tell you that life suddenly becomes very busy. I planned a walking (again) trip to the Lake District for early April but had to bring it forward to February as it clashed with a six-weeks trip to Cyprus (I told you life got busy!). Just prior to going I got the chance to purchase a new touring bike, which I collected on the way to the Lakes and decided to give it a test whilst there. The route was Kendall, Windermere, Hawkshead and Ambleside hostels, each are all within easy walking distance of each other. This is a bit of a disadvantage for a cyclist, it is only a short days cycling and  means a lot of hanging around, especially as it either rained or snowed every day. Never mind, I had a good time and was ready for the warmth of Cyprus. Whilst there it was not all fun-in-the-sun, I spent at least two weeks (!) painting and decorating.

Early May saw a two-day trip to Stratford-upon-Avon, 83 miles one way, 93 miles return. This is a journey through Northamptonshire, Buckinghamshire and Warwickshire, over the range of hills that rise in the Cotswolds and extend diagonally across the country to The Wash in Lincolnshire - they have to finish there, the land runs out. A hilly ride but in warm weather a pleasant two days. It was a profitable trip, I found a £20.00 note by the roadside on the way and another £5.00 shortly before arrival.

Statford-upon-Avon Youth Hostel

Whilst not out enjoying myself cycling around the countryside I have to turn this:

Into something a bit more usable. At the end of the summer, although it is not finished, it looks like this:

During mid-January 2012 I made a visit to Streatley on Thames youth hostel, in Oxfordshire. The original idea was to stay here when I was on the 'A Quaker village and the University Way' tour but the accommodation did not fit in so it had to be a trip on it's own.

I left the bike at home on this one, taking the express coach to Oxford then service buses to Wallingford and on to Streatley. All free-of-charge using a concessionary bus pass and spending time in Oxford on both days.

Having been in Cyprus for a while I made my first cycle trip of 2012 at the end of April to Lee Valley youth hostel, near Cheshunt. A pleasant ride in both directions although rather 'damp' on the return journey.



That's it for now, keep checking back as I will add other bits as they happen, if they are not in the blog section.

The North Sea Cycle Route - 2011

I'll put a better picture here when I have one !

The North Sea Cycle Route at 6,000 kilometres (3,780 miles, as near as makes no difference) is the longest continuously waymarked cycle trail in the world. The longest I can accept, but the 'continuously warmarked' bit I will leave until I have ridden it. From experience of Sustrans trails in the UK I find that every now-and-then the waymarkers are missing. I am never sure if they have been taken for souvenirs or it is a way of making you buy the maps. The route (in my case) follows the east coast of England, the west (ish) coasts of Holland, Germany, Denmark, Sweden and Norway then crosses the North Sea to Scotland and back through England to my start-point. Or to anywhere you want to go.

Day 1. 12 June 2011. Woodhall Spa to Holbeach.

 

The Start of the Route

(In fact this picture is a bit of a cheat - it was taken at the start point two years after I started, I omitted to do it at the time!)



I chose to begin the route at Woodhall Spa as I was on my way back from a short trip to the North York Moors and it seemed generally in the right direction. My start point was just off the B1191 at Martin Dales and the route takes me alongside the river Witham for the 17-mile run to Boston. It is not long before I am fed-up with the flat, featureless landscape, not enough to wish for a hill but something to look at would be nice. There is some confusion at Langrick Bridge where the route has been changed to run alongside the river but I take the original road route (I make a note to use my glasses when I am map reading). Never mind, I rejoin the trail at Antons Gout - odd name, anyone know how it came about? Perhaps Anton was a village elder who became unwell. Whatever, it's a lovely spot to take a break by the river and enjoy a drink. It is a smooth trail from here to Boston and what an approach to the town it is. A mile and a half to go and Boston Stump (Saint Botolph's church) appears at the end of the trail. This part of the trail is named the 'Water Rail Trail' and some of the sign posts are imitation railway signals with the destinations shown on them.

Boston Stump

I had expected Boston to be a bit of a free-for-all, make-it-up-as-you-go-along town but given the high level of traffic that is always in the town it was surprisingly easy to travel through and I am soon out in the country again on the road to Frampton and Fosdyke Bridge. I only saw one car on this road but to judge by the amount of beer cans by the roadside it must see heavier traffic at some time. The only other thing I saw moving was a hare that took me on in a sprint, it won by a mile. I had intended to stop again at Fosdyke Bridge but with the promise of a mile and a half of poorly laid tarmac I could not resist carrying on. The route takes me on towards Holbeach St Marks and whilst still being flat does have a few things to look at.

Trail end for me to-day is Holbeach with just less than 41 miles of the NSCR completed. It is 3pm and time to head for Thurlby Youth Hostel and a bed for the night. Had the wind not  blown so strongly and I had arrived in Holbeach earlier I intended to ride on the 17 miles on to Wisbech, but that doubles the distance back to Thurlby so I give up on the idea.

Day 2. June 14 2011. Holbeach to Wisbech.

To-day I re-ride the roads back to Holbeach. A few years ago I remember fly-tippers taking the trouble to dump the rubbish off the road.

Holbeach has an interesting mosaic in the centre, giving a brief history of the town beginning with a Roman presence in 54AD and finishing with images of famous people from recent history who came from the area. I recognise Geoff Capes but as a cyclist should I recognise Les Fensom, 'The Fenland Flyer'? Perhaps an internet search is required.

From Holbeach the route takes in Fleet, Gedney, Tydd St Mary and Tydd St Giles before I miss a sign in Newton and go off for a ride all over the place. Oddly enough I find myself back on route so decide to turn round, retrace my route and eventually pick out the sign I had missed, hidden in a bush. No problem, the sun is shinning and the wind is now at my back. After 22 and a bit miles that should have been 17 I arrive in Wisbech market place and call it a day for the NSCR, all that is left is for me to get home.

Wisbech

When I do get home I have cycled almost 115 miles to-day - all for 22 miles of the North Sea Route !

63 and a bit miles covered so far, just 3,716 to go. It will be interesting to see if I ever get it finished.
Further note on 18 August - The only information I can find on Les Fensom is 'Racing Cyclist, holder of National Records'. Well, it's a bit more than I had before!

Day 3. 10 October 2011. Wisbech to Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk
After an early ride to the station, two train journeys and a 10-mile ride I am back in Wisbech to make a start on the next section. Wisbech is mentioned in the Domeday Book and during the 17th century local residents formed a group calling themselve the 'Fenland Tigers'. Their aim was to prevent the draining of the fens. They seem to have had as much luck as railway enthusiasts in the 1960's trying to prevent line closures after Doctor Beeching swung his axe. As a result of the draining Wisbech became very prosperous from agricultural production and the ability to ship the goods out using the river Nene - I suspect the do not use this method to-day.
As I ride out of the town I meet a local cyclist who is making his way home from work. We pass his house and he rides with me to guide me out of town. From here I hit the flat-lands of the fens. As I pass West Walton I wonder how long it is since the post office last sold a stamp.

From here I travel on high roads with a water channel on either side. With a tail wind progress is fast and easy almost all the way to Kings Lynn. Before I reach Kings Lynn I pass through Wiggenhall St Germans and make my second crossing to-day of the river Great Ouse. The first was shortly after 7 o'clock this morning less than half-a-mile from home. If I had thrown a stick in the water would I have been able to see it again here? Shortly after this my map tells me to follow the river path and enter Kings Lynn through the power station. I think this is a bit odd in to-days climate of safety and security, in fact the path follows the boundary fence.

If anyone tells you Norfolk is a flat county, do not believe them! As I enter the Sandringham estate I encounter my first hill, not long but sharp enough to slow my progress (even more). This type of terrain continues for the the rest of to-day and tomorrow. Cycling through the royal estate of Sandringham I keep my eyes open for sight of a reigning monarch, in fact it is such a nice day I see no rain at all. After a lunch break in the park I ride with a couple on a tandem as far as Snettisham, where I catch a glimpse of the sea. I think the tide must have been going out as I never saw it again for the rest of the day.

On through Ringstead, Burnham Market and then Burnham Thorpe, the birthplace of Lord Nelson. Predictably the village pub is called 'The Lord Nelson' but apart from his name on the village sign I see no other celebration of the man, perhaps they will erect the column here when London have finished with it. Next is a turn into Holkham Park. The gates at this entrance are closed to public traffic, only walkers and cyclists can get in 'via the front door' and this gives me a beautiful view of the house and gardens as I approach through the deer park. I am not looking forward to the next bit along part of the North Norfolk Coastal Path. I walked it last year and know it is a mixture of sand, Norfolk flint and tree roots, I make steady progress. Due to silting-up of the navigational channel Wells harbour is now a mile from the sea but this gives me a chance to ride a very pleasant entry to the town.

Following waymarkers I make my way into and out of Wells, finding myself on a  green lane which soon turns into a flint track. I have never been a fan of this type of surface and as I suspected I would, I puncture the back tyre. This road goes on for about another three miles before I hit tarmac again for the two-miles ride back to Wells and the youth hostel for the night. After a shower and a meal I decide to mend the inner tube, only to find the glue tube is damaged and all the adhesive has dried out. I have two more spare tubes, I cannot afford three punctures.

Just over 63 and a half miles on the route covered to-day.

Day 4. 11 October 2011. Wells-next-the-Sea, Norfolk - Ellingham, Suffolk.

I'm glad I got the rough track out of the way last night, it means I do not have to do it this morning. The route takes me south through the very pretty and religiously inclined Walshingham. On a country lane after the village I pass seven vicars walking along and am tempted to stop and ask them why the Almighty is so upset he has send this terrible windy weather to us, but they all seem deep in thought, perhaps they are pondering the same question.

I ride through Fakenham and pass the Museum of Gass - how do they display it? In bottles or sealed glass display cabinets? Can you take the top off for a sniff? How do they get supplies of old gass?

Shortly after I stop in the village of Great Ryburgh for a snack and to change maps. So far I have been using map NN1A, Hull to Fakenham, I must now use NN1B Fakenham to Harwich. I will need NN1A again if I ever get the route completed, to get me from Hull back to Woodhall Spa. As I put the map back in its envelope I wonder how long it will be, if ever, until it sees the light of day again.

Before Norwich I should use the Marriotts Way, which a note on my map tells me is 'an attractive route although the surface is variable, poor in parts. Some cyclist may prefer to use an alternative route'. I vote for the last option and find myself criss-crossing the Marriotts Way several times, although some of the surface looks quite good rolled stone, some is definitely 'poor'.

I pick up the correct route again as I enter Norwich and find I am on a really nice ride through the city and on via a country park to ride by the river Yare. After a short climb along a private road I get a good view of the sewage works, and a large area it covers, perhaps it is all the mustard they eat. Shortly after I make a little detour to avoid another green lane.

On through quite roads passing Loddon and on to the end of the route for now, at Ellingham. I have seen no signs for the County of Suffolk along the way, but I have to take it I am in the county. I seem to have chosen a very odd place to finish my ride, a sign post on the A143, but from here the route goes east and I need to go west to get home.

From here I have several options to get home, all involve a ride into a strong headwind. I choose the 25-mile ride to Attleborough, then the train to Cambridge for an overnight stay at the youth hostel and a final ride home tomorrow morning.

Over the two days I have covered just short of 134 and three quarter miles on the NSCR, a total of 198.33 from day one - not much is it!

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