Edinburgh, Berwick upon Tweed and Alnwick

A cycling tour with a difference - NO CYCLING!

This 'visit' was originally planned as part of a 12-day cycling tour which, for several reason has been cut back to three days (four if you count the return journey from Newcastle upon Tyne) travelling by train and bus.

Sunday 26 April - Edinburgh

Following a morning train journey I arrived in Edinburgh just after mid-day. Starting at Waverley bridge my self-guided walking tour takes me to the Royal Mile. A major tourist destination in the city it has attracted a very large crowd. The first destination on this walk is the Palace of Holyrood House. At the very end of the Royal Mile it is the residence of the Royal family when they visit the city. 

Opposite is the Scottish Parliament building - the design is rather controversial with the Scottish people.

The return journey is uphill to pass (amongst other things) St. Giles Cathedral and finally reach the castle.

A house of multiple occupancy - Edinburgh style

From here it is downhill all the way the Princes Park and the Scott Memorial before making my way to Edinburgh Central youth hostel. Conveniently situated on the road to Leith it offers comfortable accommodation and a variety of options for my evening meal.

Monday 27 April - Berwick upon Tweed

This morning I am in no particular hurry to set off and am able to enjoy a leisurely breakfast before a steady walk to Edinburgh Waverley railway station - this is the only railway station in the British Isles named after a book title - Sir Walter Scott's 'Waverley.' On the way I passed Sherlock Holmes and the giraffes - always interesting to look at.

Several years ago whilst in Edinburgh I visited 'Jenners' an attract department store on Princes street. On a more recent visit it was closed for renovation. This project seems to be now standing still and the building is not looking it's best - to say the least.

From Edinburgh it was a short train journey to Berwick upon Tweed, an attractive town on the England/Scotland border.

A short distance from the railway station my walk begins under the castle walls and I take in the view of the Royal Border bridge.

Opened by Queen Victoria in 1850 to carry the Scotland to England railway line over the river Tweed this grade I listed building continues to serve this purpose, carrying much heavier trains than originally intended.

The artist L S Lowry was a frequent visitor to Berwick and my walk this afternoon takes in part of the 'Lowry Trail' and part of the newly opens British Coastal Path.

The Russian Gun

Captured in 1856 during the Crimean War it was gifted to the town in 1857

The pier, overlooking the North Sea

Tonight I am booked into Berwick Youth Hostel at The Maltings, a converted building with modern sleeping accommodation but with sympathetically restored original features in the public spaces.

Tuesday 28 April - Anlwick

Once again, a steady start to the morning in Berwick before making my way to catch the bus to Alnwick. With an hour to wait I have to endure a very strong and cold wind. 

The journey from Berwick is enjoyable, being partly along the coast and passing Bamburgh Castle - perhaps worth another journey to visit the castle?

An afternoon walk around Alnwick to have a look at the castle - perhaps better known the world over as Hogwarts Castle in the Harry Potter film series.

After a look at the castle I made my way to the Alnwick Gardens - mainly for coffee and cake, but also a look at the gardens themselves.

No visit to Alnwick is complete without a visit to Barter Books. A second hand bookseller situated in the former railway station and claiming that at any one time to have 350,000 second hand books in stock. From a walk round I can well believe it - I bought one.

For a town the size of Alnwick the station is very oversized, the reason being that the railway company wanted something big and impressive for when the royal family visited the castle. They seemed to have manged it.

After spending last night in a former maltings warehouse, tonight I am in the former police station that is Alnwick Youth Hostel. 

Wednesday 29 April - Newcastle upon Tyne

Not really a walking day, more a stop-over on my way home. From Alnwick, once again, a bus ride and a chance to view various villages along the way.

From the bus station in Newcastle it is a short walk to the railway station passing an attractive art deco building and an interesting sculpture, then the train home.

The Way of the Roses

 

The Way of the Roses is a 170-mile waymarked coast-to-coast route across the width of England, west to east or east to west.

I chose east to west, from Bridlington in the white rose county of Yorkshire to Morecambe in the red rose county of Lancashire.

Assistance with the prevailing wind is is probably better west to east but a 'slight breeze' did not give me problems. Having ridden the route I think the hills are just as hard whichever direction is taken!

There are not many photographs of this ride - cycling was taking all my energy!

Monday 11 August - Bridlington to York

                               

The North Sea at Bridlington - looking almost inviting

From the seafront in Bridlington the first section is a 19-mile ride to Driffield. After an initial long but steady climb out of Bridlington the road rolls up and down. At some point after the Driffield - I cannot remember the location - the route follows a two-mile section of stone, gravel and sand track. Nothing for anyone to worry about, only my own aversion to anything less than 'smooth' tarmac. The good news is that after a slow and careful ride I emerged without any problems.

I took a minor diversion off the route at Stamford Bridge, for no better reason than to buy lunch, then back on the trail at the former railway station.

Road signs at Dunnington then on to finish the day York Youth Hostel.

 

Tuesday 12 August - York to Malham

A day of two sections. The first a ride through the flat (ish) Vale of York and a cafe stop at 'Plenty', a cafe in Boroughbridge. Plenty by name and plenty by nature. The portions were good and the quality was first class. Very interesting 'wall art' as well!

From here onwards the second 30-plus miles of todays ride began to get hard work, the majority of the 4,852 feet of climbing comes after this point. 

The first climb is a 'steady one'. a straight road through the attractive Studley Royal Park.

For me, the hardest climb - actually a walk - was at Pateley Bridge were the road climbs for almost two and a quarter miles at 16%. No way was I going to ride that with a loaded bike. I ride the parts that were not so steep but gave up on the 16% sections. The reward was the view from the summit.

The route ended after 69 miles at Malham Youth Hostel.

Wednsday 13 August - Malham to Morecambe

The day began with the four mile climb of Black Gill Lane, skirting KIrk Gill before the 18% decent to Settle - what a relief!

A steady day with 'only' 3,140 feet of climbing.

The highlight of the day was joining the cycle greenway alongside the river Lune, just before Lancaster. This is a smooth surface and almost level traffic-free route that avoids roads all the way - the final nine miles - to the finish at Morecambe.

Welcomed to the finish line by the comedian, the late Eric Morecambe.

Thursday 14 August - Rest Day in Lancaster and Morecambe

Leaving the bike in my hotel room this morning I took a bus journey to Lancaster for a self-guided walking tour of the town. 

Priory Church of St Mary

The Music House

The Museum

The Lancaster Canal

Returning to Morecambe a walk along the sea front seemed to indicate that this was the place for international 'street food'. Anything you want from any country!

 

The former railway station - inside is now a market

A repaint required?

The waiting room at Morecambe bus station.

By way of contrast - the Art Deco Midland Hotel.