North York Moors - June 2011

June 9 - Lockton.

After the hottest and driest spring on record I chose the first day of rain to depart on this trip, with rain part-way through the ride to St Neots station. Not enough to put on a waterproof jacket but enough to ensure I was wet on arrival. After a change out of cycling clothes I caught the train to Peterborough and then York with arrival just after 1.30pm.
 

York is a city of contrast, an attractive city for the tourist but always full of traffic. A few years ago it was voted the top cycle-friendly city in the UK - is it still? I can accept the need for tourist and service buses but the level of private and commercial traffic is remarkable.

After a ride through the city walls (well, a gap in them) it was out towards Huntington and then onto quieter roads through Strenshall, Thornton-le-Clay and towards the fearsome 'Bulmer Bank'. I had ridden this hill whilst taking part in the Great Yorkshire Bike Ride some years ago and it did not seem so bad - that was on a light 'summer bike' - a bit different on a touring set-up with panniers and saddle bag. A good 40+mph down but a slower ascent to the village!

From Bulmer I make my way towards Castle Howard. Interesting that there is now a 'Castle Howard Holiday Park' and a 'Castle Howard Business Centre'. Has someone seen an opportunity or is it a way to make ends meet in the financial world?
Still riding on generally flat roads until I get to Pickering where I hit the main road and the hills begin. The main A169 is not so bad and it is only a few miles before I turn left and drop into Lockton with it's 'Green Beacon' hostel. If it is so green with solar panels on the roof why was there no hot water? Apart from that this is a great place to stay, clean, comfortable and in a perfect location.
 



Lockton Youth Hostel

June 10 - Whitby.

Leaving Lockton through the village towards Levisham I had a terrific ride down an almost straight 1-in-5 descent, unfortunately the 1-in-5 up the other side has alpine-like characteristics with hair-pin bends all the way to the top, still the views are second to none.
 

Levisham - Great view, what happens to the road?        

      

After another 1-in-5 descent I was over the level crossing at Levisham station and onto what the map describes as 'Newton Forest Drive'. After a short section of loose gravel I am onto tarmac. When the tarmac is good it is very good, when it is bad it is terrible, but at least there is no traffic. This road goes on for about four miles then the tarmac runs out and I am back onto what was probably at one time rolled stone. I'm not sure what they used to roll it with but perhaps it would have been better to pay a little more for a better finish. Another mile on and I am onto loose gravel over poorly-laid tarmac - by this stage I think the driver of the roller had had enough and gone home. I am glad I cycled this route, at least I know not to do it again in my car.

At the end of the forest drive I turn right and head in the general direction of Grosmont. This is a very little-used road over the moors and I can imagine why it is not high on the council's list of roads to be repaired, in fact I wonder if it is on the list at all. I seem to be spending a lot of time toiling up hills over the moors, but the scenery is still first class. When early canal and railway builders came to a hill they followed the contours around it, no such luxury for road builders, straight up and over the top!.

High above Grosmont I turn right and pass a sign that says 'Deep ford ahead, often impassable'. It seems not all that deep and I decide to give it a try, I made it part-way before falling off and walking out, all part of the highs and (not very many) lows of cycle touring! I drip into Grosmont to look at the trains.
 

Leaving Grosmont on the same road, but avoiding the ford I am into slogging up hill again. From experience I know that Whitby is at sea-level and at one point imagine I am about to start the descent. Picking up the Sustrans 'Moor-to-Sea' route I begin to drift downhill, to be caught out by a climb twice as high as the descent. This goes on for miles, short downhill, long uphill, at some stages catching a glimpse of Whitby Abbey. Then Sustrans pull one of their tricks, in Rushwarp the route is signed right onto a green lane and I am riding over loose rocks on a steep(ish) descent. I have never been an off-road rider, perhaps I should start. At the foot Sustrans pull their second trick (one they use regularly), at a junction of two tracks they don't put up a sign, probably this is to ensure you buy the map next time (?). I take the, as it turns out, correct, left-hand fork. At last the road goes down and I am riding on a level with the river Esk, short-lived joy, uphill at 1-in-5 again. At last the final downhill comes with a fast ride into Whitby. I don't relax, again experience tells me that there is a final climb to the hostel, on the cliff-top next to the abbey.
 

I sleep well.

June 11 - Scarborough.
Along the cliff-top to Hawsker and I join Sustrans National Cycle Route 1 at the converted railway station and cycle hire centre. A fairly smooth cinder path takes me high above the sea in the direction of Robins Hood Bay. The railway line that originally ran along this route closed in 1965 but the indentations from the railway sleepers can still clearly be felt as you ride along. At one point I hit tractor ruts crossing the trail and both front panniers jump off their mountings. In the car park above Robin Hoods Bay I adjust the fasteners and re-fit them - I did that at Whitby last night and obviously did a poor job. I had intended to ride down the hill to sea level, just for the fun of it and had been going a couple of miles before I realised I had forgotten all about it - perhaps next time.
The next stop is Ravenscar. This was a town planned in the 1890's. If not a Milton Keynes of it's day, a holiday village with housing, retail (shops in those days) and entertainment all within it's borders. Unfortunately whoever planned it missed the fact that the rock was unsuitable and there is a 600-foot sheer cliff down to the beach. Streets were laid out, an hotel, a row of houses and a railway station were all built and plots of land were sold before the project collapsed. It is still possible to speak with families who hold deeds to land purchased by relatives.

Ravenscar - the road layout can be clearing seen

Leaving Ravenscar I am fed-up with looking for pot-holes and rocks on the trail and missing the sea-views, and join the road, only to find myself back on the trail after a few miles when the road runs out. I am not sure if the trail is getting smoother of my trail-skills are improving (I suggest the former) but I soon catch up two mountain bikers. The down-side of sitting behind them is I cannot read the trail ahead and am constantly dodging rocks and pot-holes, I stop to let them get ahead, eventually catching them up and getting ahead as they open and close a set of gates. I also stop and have a conversation with two Dutch cyclists, one riding an interesting cargo bike.

 



The route takes me on towards Scarborough, unfortunately as the trail is an old railway line trees have grown up on either side and a lot of the time I am now riding in a 'green tunnel' with no particular views. Far be it for me to make comments on the mentality of the people who live near this piece of the trail as it approaches Scarborough, but the half-brick that was thrown at me from an embankment luckily missed. Judging by the number of rocks and bricks at this point I suspect I am not the first target, in which case you would expect people to be a better shot. Perhaps this is a sad reflection on the youth of to-day, they are even low-achievers when it comes to vandalism.
When I was very young my parents would take me to Scarborough on day-trips by train. I have photographs from that time and it is not possible to put another bucket and spade down on the beach, to-day the donkies and life guards look around hopefully for someone to take a ride/get into difficulties in the sea. No takers on either score.
After a ride around the town I head for the hostel, just in time to avoid a rain shower that turns into a hail storm.

 Scarborough Youth Hostel

June 12 - Woodys Top.

I am up and out of Scarborough on the main A64 road before most of the town is awake this morning. The state of this road I wish I was back on the trail and pass a car dealer advertising 'Pothole Damage - Call In'. Possibly this road has been in a poor state of repair for some time. At Staxton I make a left turn and begin to cross the Yorkshire Wolds. The hill I am about to climb is one I have ridden down on the Great Yorkshire Bike Ride, I wish I was riding down to-day. This is a long, hard climb but I avoid a stop at the view point, there is still a bit more of a climb to go! I eventually stop for a drink and to take in the fine view. It is not possible to see Blackpool tower from here but you can see a long way.

I seem to be back to climbing hills at 3-4mph again - I do my best! The unfortunate part is that at the top of each hill it is possible to see the next down- and up-hill. I decide to take advantage of the run down to Foxholes and easily trigger the 30mph sign on entry to the village, I don't trigger anything going out - except a lot of heavy breathing. Eventually I am through Driffield and into Beverley, a town I know well having worked for two years at a company based here. The town centre roads are closed to-day for resurfacing so it's the long tour around the common before I rejoin the A164 to Humber Bridge - at which point the rain begins. As can be seen below, not many walkers or cyclists to-day.
 

The visitors area at the Humber Bridge is always a disappointment to me. Of all the times I have been the visitor centre has never been open - to be fair, it is generally a Sunday and the staff will want to go off to visit places. The cafe is also a let-down, always doing just enough to call itself a cafe. I visited with my cycling club on one trip and asked for beans on toast, to be told they did not serve it. I could have all-day breakfast, which included beans and toast, but not on their own. I suppose the boys and girls working there were worried that on the day before judgment day, when everyone is called to account, they would be asked why, in the great scheme of things, there were two slices of toast and a portion of beans missing. I feel certain they both had a portion of beans missing.
After the bridge I again pick up NCR1 through Barton-upon-Humber but leave it shortly after the town and head towards Humberside airport. As the afternoon wears on and I wear out the rain turns much heavier, I am now riding with lights on. If I could see more I am sure I would enjoy this route. Eventually I pick up signs for Louth then Burwell, where I arrive just after 7pm having been out 10 and a half hours - what fun.

I had not put all my clothes into dry-bags to-day, luckily there are only two other people at the hostel so I have clothes drying on radiators all over the building. Again I sleep well.

Woodys Top Youth Hostel

June 13- Thurlby.

Leaving to-day for a promised fine day I am soon riding through a rain storm. It was short-lived and I can soon see Lincoln cathedral far away on it's hill-top before dropping down to Horncastle and heading for Woodhall Spa. Just outside the town I again pick up NCR1, for my purpose to-day this is the start of my journey around the 'North Sea Cycle Route', a 6,000 kilometre trail along the east coast of England and the coasts of Holland, Germany, Denmark, Sweden and Norway before crossing to Scotland and (for me) back to Woodhall Spa. It will be interesting to see how long it takes me.

My route takes me alongside the river Witham for the 17-mile run to Boston. It is not long before I am fed-up with the flat, featureless landscape, not enough to wish for a hill but something to look at would be nice. There is some confusion at Langrick Bridge where the route has been changed to run alongside the river but I took the original road-route. Never mind, I rejoin the trail at Antons Gout - odd name, anyone know how it came about? Perhaps Anton was a village elder who became unwell. Or am I reading it wrong - he had a famous goat? Whatever, it's a lovely spot to take a break by the river and enjoy a drink. It is a smooth trail from here to Boston and what an approach to the town. A mile and a half to go and Boston Stump (Saint Botolph's church) appears at the end of the trail. This part of the trail is named the 'Water Rail Trail' and some of the sign posts  are imitation railway signals with the destinations shown on them.
 



Boston Stump

I had expected Boston to be a bit of a free-for-all, make-it-up-as-you-go-along town but given the high level of traffic that is always in the town it was surprisingly easy to travel through and I am soon out in the country again on the road to Frampton and Fosdyke Bridge. I only saw one car on this road but to judge by the amount of beer cans by the roadside it must see heavier traffic at some time. The only other thing I saw moving was a hare that took me on in a sprint, it won by a mile. I had intended to stop again at Fosdyke Bridge but with the promise of a mile and a half of poorly laid tarmac I could not resist carrying on. The route takes me on towards Holbeach St Marks and whilst still being flat does have a few things to look at.

Trail end for me to-day is Holbeach with just less than 41 miles of the NSCR completed. It is 3pm and time to head for Thurlby and a bed for the night. Had the wind not been blowing so strongly and I had arrived in Holbeach earlier I intended to ride on the 17 miles to Wisbech, but that doubles the distance back to Thurlby so I give up on the idea. The route takes me out through Moulton Chapel and Cowbit (who thinks of these names?) at which point the road is slipping into the dyke's on either side with a 50mm gap in the middle and a 100mm 'step' running in the direction of travel, then on the long straight, flat road to Baston and a short ride up the A15, where I have a few close calls with heavy traffic, but not close enough (to close for me).

June 14 - Home.
 

Thurlby Youth Hostel

Leaving Thurlby the route takes me back the 26 miles to Holbeach, using almost the same roads again, in order to continue on the NSCR. At few years ago I remember fly-tippers taking the trouble to dump the rubbish off the road.
 

From Holbeach the route takes in Fleet, Gedney, Tydd St Mary and Tydd St Giles before I miss a sign in Newton and go off for a ride all over the place. Oddly enough I find myself back on route so decide to turn round, retrace my route and eventually pick up the sign I had missed, hidden in a bush. No problem, the sun is shinning, the wind is at my back, the only down-side is that I am heading for home to-night. After 22 and a bit miles that should have been 17 I arrive in Wisbech market place and call it a day for the NSCR, all that is left is for me to get home.

Wisbech

To do this I take the road to Friday Bridge and March and am in the land of wind farms, luckily they are not doing great business to-day so riding is easy. From March it is quiet back-roads to Doddington, Chatteris and Somersham before I arrive in St Ives and get lost in the one-way system, doing two circuits of the town before trying pot-luck to get out. At this point I have no map to get me home so rely on the just-mentioned pot-luck. After crossing the river bridge I spot a sign for NCR51, which passes within two miles of my house. At least there is a chance of me making it home. Suddenly I recognise a place name I know - Biggleswade - and head for that. It's a steady ride through minor roads, apart from the busy crossing of the A428 Bedford-to-Cambridge road, but it is generally downhill all the way (apart from a few uphills). I have another 40mph downhill and before long am picking up NCR51 again. Another 10 and a half hour day to-day with just short of 115 miles covered - not bad to say I only covered 22 on the North Sea Route!

A touch over 427 miles covered in all on this journey.