Lands End to John o'Groats - Getting Home from the Finish

Sunday 25 May

After finishing my End-to-End ride in John o'Groats, all that remains now is to get home. The Scottish Youth Hostels Association, now re-branded 'Hostelling Scotland' have seen fit to close the hostel here, perhaps they think there is no need for one? For that reason I am spending two nights at 'Hamnavoe', a bed and breakfast house in the village, just over a mile from the 'finish'. 'Hamnavoe' is taken from the Norse language and is literally translated as 'Safe Haven'. It is also interesting that the local dialect also reflects the Norse influence.

Monday 27 May

For those who have been paying attention or for those like me who cannot remember but are able to look back for the details, you will recall that the day before I started my End-to-End ride I was at The Lizard in Cornwall, the most southerly point of the mainland United Kingdom. To-day, the day after I finished the ride I am at Dunnett Head, the most northerly point. The is a lighthouse keepers cottage on private land beyond the marker post so unfortunately I cannot claim to be the most northerly person at that point.

Dunnett Head and the most Northerly bicycle
on the mainland United Kingdom - unless the
Lighthouse keeper has one I cannot see

The rocks at Dunnett head

I climbed up to the viewpoint but all I could see
was 360 degrees of mist

After riding the bike with a full load of luggage continuously for 27 days it felt very strange to-day riding with nothing on - nothing on the bike that is, not me riding with nothing on. I set off for Dunnett Head in heavy rain but by mid morning on my way back to John o'Groats it had stopped.

Stoma Island in the Pentland Firth, unoccupied since the last resident left in 1962



On the return journey I can see the effects of the prevailing wind.

Back in John o'Groats is this really the best we can offer at a major tourist location? 

An empty 'Craft Worksop' village

Takeaway fish and chips from a portable building

A coffee shop with plastic tablecloths where I ordered a scone
and butter, but it came without the butter

To be fair, there is a very good restaurant on site, which I used after I finished my ride yesterday

Is this a joke by the local council?

I have now been in the north of Scotland for two days and have had nothing but winter weather; rain, cold wind and low cloud.I have now been in the far north of Scotland for two days, given that it is almost June the weather is still like winter, rain, cold wind and low cloud. At 7pm the cloud was so low I could only just see across the road, by 8pm the cloud had lifted, the sun was streaming down and I could see out to the coast and the offshore islands. There was still some daylight at 10.30pm.

Shrouded in mist, the Muckle Stacks at Duncansby Head

Tuesday 27 May

I left John o'Groats this morning in very poor visibility, once again I could only just see across the road. 10 miles on the cloud had lifted and with a strong tailwind I made swift progress to Thurso, which seems a pleasant place, if only I had had chance to stop and look around.

The first 40 miles to-day were ridden at a swift pace. That came to an end at the village of Melvich as I started to climb the hills high above the coast. I pulled into the viewpoint overlooking the sea above the village. To the right is the Marie Curry Cancer Care daffodil-planted 'Field of Hope'. To the left there seems no hope at all.

The slow progress for the next 25 miles does give me chance to take in the views of mountains, moorland and beaches.

Farr Beach in the village of Bettyhill

Everything is so vast, some of the best scenery I have seen on the whole trip. As I descend to the hostel in the village of Tongue I see the vast expanse of beach at the head of the Kyle of Tongue.

The hostel was built in 1891 as a hunting lodge for Lady Blair, who married the Duke of Sutherland. It has been a youth hostel since 1946.

Wednesday 28 May.

Tongue hostel, bottom right. Sitting on the shore of the Kyle of Tongue
under the shadow of Ben Tongue

Having watched a most remarkable sunset last night I had expected better weather to start the day, not the rain I received. To save a 10-mile ride around the Kyle of Tongue I took the one mile causeway and bridge across the Kyle followed by a four mile climb in sight of the cloud-covered Ben Hope.

The Causeway and bridge over the Kyle of Tongue

'Munros' are mountains in Scotland with a height of over 3,000 feet, Ben Hope is the most northerly.

A cloud-capped Ben Hope

                                                                                

The road climbs and dips to the 10-mile point, where I arrive at Loch Eriboll. No such luxury of a bridge here but seven miles along the loch one way followed by a seven mile return on the opposite side.

Salmon farming on Loch Eribol

On the way down I am riding due south into a headwind (I hope it changes soon, I am riding due south again the day after tomorrow). It is a hilly ride combined with steep mountains on both sides of the loch which help to increasing the speed of the wind. The return journey is easier, on which I pass the village of Laid, created between 1832 and 1835 to provide crofts for the evicted families of the Highland Clearances when their land was taken to provide more profitable returns from farming sheep. Once again I am passing some of the most beautiful beaches imaginable, each one better than the one before.

Ceannabeinne Bay. The rock outcrops are Lewisian Gneiss

Ceannabeinne Bay

Sango Bay

Balnakeil Bay

I am staying to-night in the hostel in the village of Durness, where several of the buildings show evidence of their former military use.

The multi-coloured Durness Youth Hostel, itself a former military barracks

The village also has a memorial garden to commemorate the Beatle John Lennon, who spent many holidays with his aunt, who lived here. There is also a garden created by volunteers as part of a BBC Television programme.

Thursday 29 May.

After 30 days of riding every day I am having to-day off to visit Cape Wrath (even Tour de France riders get a day off once each week). Although Cape Wrath is not an island the only way to get to it is by ferry, three miles from Durness, which makes a good early morning walk. After hearing horror stories about punctures on the roads of Cape Wrath I am going to use the mini-bus service. Once over the 10-minute water crossing there is an 11 mile drive over a single track road of broken tarmac and rough stones to the lighthouse, built in 1828 by Robert Stevenson, at the North West point. Another ‘extreme’ to-day, I am the most north westerly person on the mainland United Kingdom. From the lighthouse looking out to sea the next point of land is Iceland then Greenland. At this moment I am closer to the Arctic Circle than I am to the south coast of England. The remote area of the Cape is used by the Ministry of Defence for live ammunition firing and can, at times be closed to the public. Wrath comes from the old Norse, ‘Wrath’ meaning ‘turning point’. After long Atlantic voyages the Vikings knew they were heading for home as they made the turn round the Cape’s distinctive cliffs with a vertical drop of 900 feet into the sea.

The lighthouse, Cape Wrath

Cape Wrath, the view towards Iceland

The Cathedral Stacks, Cape Wrath

Returning the Durness during the afternoon I visited the mouth of Smoo Cave, yet another point of interest in the village.

Unfortunately this is the kind of pollution that I have found all the way along the east and north coasts of Scotland.
I have been following a ribbon of it every day

Friday 30 May
Turning left at the end of Durness village this morning I am now, for the first time in a long time, definitely heading south. Mapping is not really required for the journey to-day, there is only one road. After riding around sea level for the first seven miles the road begins to kick up and continues to do so for the next three miles. In fact the whole days ride is one of climbing and descending. The climbs are only hard because they go on so long, not steep just long drags. As I climb higher the light breeze I started the day with is now getting quite strong and the sun seems to have given up. After 27 miles I have a break in the coastal village of Scourie and as I set off again the sun has put in another appearance. At 36 miles I stop at the graceful Kylesku bridge and take my jacket off, five miles later after climbing almost into the clouds at Stronchrubie I decide to put it back on again.

Kylesku near Ullapool at the junction of three lochs

The climb from the bridge to Stronchrubie

18 miles from Ullapool the road turns sharply to the west and with it appears a strong headwind that stays with me all the way to the end of the ride. To-day I have seem so many beautiful views if I stopped to take pictures of them all I would have never finished the ride. What a remarkably beautiful place the west of Scotland is.

Ardmair, on the approach to Ullapool

The Harbour at Ullapool

Saturday 31 May.
A Scottish Coast-to-Coast ride to-day. Almost 60-miles from Ullapool, overlooking Loch Broom on the west coast to Inverness on the east coast. Again, no real need for mapping to-day, most of the way there is only one road. The first 11 miles are hilly but not bad, the next four are extremely hard! But with 15 miles covered the remaining 45 are downhill almost all the way, any inclines are not worth worrying about. By mid-morning the road has become quite busy and all the roadside car parks are full, with walkers heading for the hills. Once again the scenery is stunning with snow topped mountains on either side of the road. At 17 Miles to go I am enjoying the view over the Beauly Firth so much I miss the turn-off for the single track which takes me to the edge of the Firth. After a U-turn I descend to the water’s edge for the ride to Kesock bridge to cross into Inverness.

Beauly Firth

Kesock Bridge, Inverness

Last time I was here I had two days to go before the end of my end-to-end ride. To-day I have three days to go before the end of my five-week tour. Arrival here also signals the end of any long distance riding for this tour, I now have probably less the 15 miles to ride before I reach home, three train journeys to take first though!

Sunday 1 June.

A short ride to the station this morning and I am aboard the train for Edinburgh to spend two nights at the hostel there.

Monday 2 June
The second day without the bike, taking in the sights that Edinburgh has to offer.

Greyfriars Bobby, who after his master died
Spent the next 14 years sitting by his grave



Dreaming Spires







Edinburgh Castle

 

Sir Walter Scott memorial, from Prince Street

Prince Street from the Sir Walter Scott memorial

Yes, I did climb the 200 feet to the top of the memorial!

Tuesday 3 June

Sherlock Holmes watches over me as I ride to Edinburgh railway station this morning, just as a light rain began to fall. By 11am the rain was so hard it was bouncing off the road, by which time I was sheltering in the station. After two train journeys I was at the station in Sandy and making my way to National Cycle Network route 51 'The University Way' which leads all the way from Oxford to Cambridge (see my blog of December 2011 for a description of this route), which will take me traffic-free all the way to my front door. One section is quite rough with tree roots pushing through the tarmac, so I avoid this bit and end with just short of 287 miles covered since I left John o'Groats.

THAT'S IT! Journey ended.
A touch over 1,719 miles covered in five weeks. Lots of rain, wind and cold days, but quite enjoyable.
Longest day - 13 May, Bridges to Liverpool, 90.24 miles.
Shortest Day - 23 May, Loch Ness to Inverness, 29.67 miles.
Highest Speed - 16 May, 48mph on the road to Alston - but cannot remember where).
Slowest Day - You don't want to know.
Total weight loss - four and a half kilo's.

Now, I just have to retrieve my car from Cornwall.