Friday 21 June
Since arriving home yesterday I have repacked my bags and set out once again. I am at Swindon railway station, the time is a little before 2.30pm and I am about to ride to the youth hostel at Cholderton, a few miles north of Salisbury.
Once out of the suburbs I pass some very large, fine houses on roads which soon turn to country lanes as I ride almost parallel to the main road to Avebury - perhaps it was originally the main road? In the village of Wroughton I turn onto Priors Hill. This is indicated as 'No Through Road' although I have been able to plot a route on the GPS. It is a very steep hill to get over before breaking out into open country and uphill again to the summit at Barbury Moor. It is here I discover how I managed to plot a through route, I have used the bridleway along the Ridgeway, a long distance footpath. In an attempt to avoid the off-road section I decide to continue straight on, a road which also turns first into a bridleway then over a stile and a walk around a field on a footpath. When I eventually reach the road and head back towards my original route I once more cross the Ridgeway before enjoying a huge descent to join the main road to Avebury, having lost an hour and finishing up about five miles from the foot of Priors Hill. 12 June, the longest day - looks as though it may turn out that way!
The main road to Avebury is generally flat so I manage to make up some time. Having forgotten it was mid-summers day I find Avebury full of people walking their routes around the ancient stones.
When I do get off the main road and back onto my planned route the roads are once again quiet and the scenery is very pleasant. After what seems like nothing of a climb and when the road begins to go downhill I have a stone circle high on a ridge to my right, an almost shear drop from the road on my left and a view to the horizon that would win a prize for it's beauty, quite remarkable view.
Despite the loss of an hour at the beginning of the ride I am really enjoying myself, 'chocolate box' villages, gently rolling roads, a tail wind, what more can I ask?
The only section that is not enjoyable is a few miles along the A303 road from Bulford which is very busy with fast traffic.
Tonight the hostel is on a rare breeds far - not that I get to look at any of the animals, but I am sure if I had, they would have been interesting.
Saturday 22 June
This morning I loop through the village of Cholderton in order to avoid the A303 on my may back to Bulford, on roads wet from overnight rain. On the way I pass the dragonfly.
As I ride over Salisbury Plain I begin to realise why I had such an enjoyable ride yesterday, I am into a headwind to-day. With rain now falling I am riding with my lights on, it is that dark. Salisbury Plain on a main road, raining and into a headwind is no fun at all.
At the village of Little Cheverell (the Heart of Salisbury Plain - or so the sign tells me) I am able to turn onto country lanes once more. I spot another garden full of stone cast gnomes and fairies but as I am going uphill and still into the wind I forget photography and keep going. Shortly after I experience the only highlight of the ride so far, a downhill section into Trowbridge - and then a stop for food.
From here I make for the village of Freshford, sitting on a steep valley side. I now have two choices of route, one is signposted to a place with 'Lower' in it's title. This seems to me to indicate downhill so this is the option I take. As I descend to the valley floor I spot a cycle path sign, Bath five miles, via the Bath and Avon Canal Trail. I have cycled 40 miles so far and not enjoyed a bit of it, suddenly I am enjoying myself, a rolled stone path, level, no wind and only the occasional canal boat for company, almost all the way to the centre of Bath.
Two things I want to see in Bath, firstly the Royal Crescent.
Secondly the now-closed Bath Green Park railway station (not on everyone's tourist list I am sure). This is a grade II listed building, opened in 1870 and closed as part of the mass line closures in 1966 but preserved after a great deal of pressure. The slamming of carriage doors has been replaced by the slamming of car doors and the clanking of railway buffers has been replaced by the clanking of shopping trolleys - it is now a supermarket car park.
After my city sightseeing tour I make my way up the long and steep Bathwick Hill to the youth hostel, another fine house overlooking the city.
Sunday 23 June
The city of Bath at 9.30 on a Sunday morning is a real pleasure. All the tourists have been whisked away in air conditioned luxury to the next location on their itinerary, the locals have seen it all before so stay at home, no traffic and just a handful of people taking breakfast at the pavement cafes.
My route takes me to the river Avon and onto the Bath to Bristol Rail Trail. 14 traffic-free miles to Bristol. Generally I am not a great fan of cycle routes on old railway lines, they tend to be green 'tunnels' between high embankments. To some extend this one is the same but for the first part I have the river for company on one side, then extensive views over fields.
After the village of Saltford I meet the southern terminus of the Avon Valley preserved railway which I follow for around three miles to Oldland. I appreciate that a suitable location is always a problem for preserved railways, but this really is a railway going from nowhere to nowhere. The southern terminus is in a field at Avon Riverside, where it seems the only place to go is back to the beginning again. Having said that the station at Oldland is well preserved and looks as though it would provide interest.
Railway Preservation - Work-in-Progress
Shortly after the station the trail takes me through a railway tunnel of around half a mile in length, that is a new experience. This trail is one of the National Cycle Routes planned by Sustrans, the sustainable transport charity. As the routes opened they commissioned various works of art along the way, each one unique. Here is the 'Fish on it's Nose' just outside Bristol.
Cycle paths take me all the way into the city and to the youth hostel in a converted dockside warehouse. After checking in and leaving my bike I walk back into the city and take in the 'Free Your Sunday's' festival, part of Bristol's green week. Along with children's games there are street entertainers, bands, a food market and places to relax.
The pirate looking out over Bristol by night.
Monday 24 June
After breakfast overlooking the docks I have an easy day ahead, firstly aboard the 11.30 train to London. On arrival at Paddington station I find to-day is the 15th birthday of the Heathrow Express, the train that travels direct from London to the airport. Staff are handing out pieces of cake but have not yet cut into the train-shaped cake, which they assure me is completely made of sponge cake.
After all the excitement of Paddington I have a short ride to St. Pancras to complete the final leg of my journey having covered just over 133 miles over four days.
WOW! what an adventurer you are, with very interesting photos too and information. I have to admit to not reading every word, but fascinating stuff in there.
ReplyDeleteLook forward to your next travels.