Great Central Cycle Ride

This 25-mile cycle route, part of Sustrans National Cycle Network, links Leicester and Rugby. Using traffic-free and quiet country roads it follows, as closely as possible, the route of the former Great Central Railway between the two cities. Opened in 1899 the Great Central was the last main line railway to reach London and the first to close, in 1966.

Now a shadow of it's former self, the Parcels Office still stands, although on the edge of the city of Leicester and not on the route.

Leaving Leicester at the site of the 'Bowstring Girder Bridge' the route follows the former track bed for around three miles before using off-road paths to reach Blaby. From here the route is along little used roads to Willoughby Waterleys, Ashby Magna, Gilmorton, Swinford and Clifton upon Dunsmore before reaching Rugby.

The Bowstring Girder Bridge, before demolition in 2008

Photo: Tonythepixel

The site of the Bowstring Girder Bridge nine years latter,

in 2017

From Rugby the route continues as National Cycle Network Route 50 to Buckingham and Aylesbury - but that is for another day!

Beginning as the 'Great Central Way', the route leaves

Leicester with the former railway viaduct arches on the right

The traffic-free Great Central Way

Swinford

Passing under a major motorway junction at Swinford,

no traffic to bother the cyclist!

Very little - in fact, nothing, to be seen of the track bed of

the original railway in Rugby.

The statue of William Webb Ellis (1806 - 1872) outside Rugby School.

Legend tells us that as a pupil at the school in 1823, whist playing football he picked up the ball and ran with it, giving birth to the game of Rugby.

February at Brighton and Wilderhope Manor.

Two hostels, both different styles of buildings, both in different kinds of location.

The first a converted town house in a city, the second a manor house in the country.

What other organisation can offer such a choice and confirm a continuing standard between both locations?

6 February - Brighton

On my previous cycle tours in the south of England I have always travelled by train to London and cycled from there. London to Brighton is no great distance, less than a day to cycle between the two cities. BUT - there is an obstacle between the two places in the shape of the South Downs. As attractive as they are they offer a serious challenge to the cyclist, constantly up and down hills with a final string in the tail at Ditchling Beacon before reaching the coast. The weather in February can be very unpredictable, for these reasons and the fact that for one night I really could not face hauling a loaded touring bike over the hills, I chose to travel by train all the way.

No takers for the beach to-day, the only point of interest being this sculpture, most of the sea front was fenced off for renovation, lets hope it is finished for the summer.

I was disappointed to find the main streets of the town occupied by people living rough. Almost every vacant doorway seems to house people asking for a donation to their living.

Every English seaside resort has at least one shop selling rock and sweet novelties.

Together with it's problem of people living on the streets, Brighton also sufferers from the attentions of graffiti 'artists'.

By contrast the hostel is a first class building in a perfect location just off the sea front and almost next-door to the Royal Pavilion. One of the fine town houses for which Brighton is famous it has been restored to a very high standard whilst retaining the original features. I also found it very pleasing that even this early in the year the accommodation was very full, ranging from student groups to individual travellers. It really is well worth a visit.

I have stayed in or passed through Brighton on several occasions and, for the first time, I have seen the Royal Pavilion - by both day and night.

George IV, as Prince of Wales began to visit Brighton in the late 1780's, primarily for drinking, gambling and 'entertaining' women. He had the Royal Pavilion built between 1815 and 1823 to enable him to have his fun in private - he became King George IV in 1820.
Due to ill health he only visited it twice after it's completion and died in 1830.

A beautiful building, this alone is worth a visit to Brighton.

20 February - Wilderhope Manor

Once again, a slight change to my usual method of travel. In place of travelling with a loaded touring bike I loaded my lighter weight road bike into my car and drove to Wilderhope Manor.

Built in 1585 the house was sold in 1734 and, it is believed, left empty until 1936 when it was purchased by the WA Cadbury Trust and gifted to the National Trust on the condition that it was used as a youth hostel, the role it fulfils to-day.

The building still retains it's original features, which blend in well with the modern facilities that go to make the accommodation welcoming and comfortable. To say the rooms are large is and under-statement, they are huge!

As I stand in the doorway it is remarkable to think that this is the same view the original owners would have had when the building was new in 1585.

Outside the farm next to the hostel is a horse made of horseshoes, and a bike not made of horseshoes.

Arriving just after mid-day and leaving the car at the hostel I cycled under the shadow of the remarkable Wenlock Edge.

On the way I passed through the village of Diddlebury. I feel sure there is a reason for this name, I expected to see a large cemetery where people went to bury their Diddles, but saw nothing.

Spring has arrived in England and with it the snowdrops are in bloom, quickly followed by crocuses.

The village of Longville in the Dale, a short distance from Wilderhope Manor.

21 February - Shrewsbury Circular

Above is a copy of a leaflet published by Shropshire County Council outlining the route of to-day's ride. It is designed as a 'leisure ride' to encourage cyclists to tour the area on quiet country roads. It is an idea route for both the experienced cyclist and those beginning or returning to cycling.

For convenience of parking (as recommended in the leaflet) I began the route at Shrewsbury Sports Village.

From here the route follows a stone path for a short distance, on the day of my visit made muddy by overnight rain.

This soon becomes a hard surface before joining quiet lanes for the ride to Upton Magna. This village was, for me, one of the highlights of the ride with an attractive church and several black-and-white half-timbered buildings which are a feature of the county.

After this the route turns north through more attractive villages than I can name until reaching Hadnall, where I wondered if this garden ornament was designed to welcome visitors of frighten them away.

At Haston the ride turns west before making it's way to Montford Bridge and heading south. Unfortunately at this point I was heading into a strong wind which took all my strength so decided not to stop and take photographs. Between Montford Bridge and Ford village there is a section of the busy A458 road. There is a narrow footpath alongside the road but the leaflet also shows an alternative route back into and out of Shrewsbury for those who are not comfortable on the main road.

Shortly after Lea the route begins to turn back to Shrewsbury and I was once more favoured with a tail wind.

At Atcham there is the very attractive 'Old Atcham Bridge', built in 1774 and spanning the river Seven.

Across the road from the bridge the route diverts through Attingham Park, an 18th century mansion and deer park, well worth a visit.

Leaving the park behind it is only a short ride back to Upton Magna and then to the finishing point.

It is not possible to travel in Shropshire, by whatever means, without encountering a hill or three. It cannot be helped, it is the nature of the county. With this in mind I must congratulate the planners at Shropshire County Council for planning this route to take in only gentle hills - with one exception, before Atcham there is a steep section, only short, but steep. After almost completing  the ride it is no shame to have to get off and walk this one (I rode it).

43½ miles in total and well worth doing again.

Touring North Wales

7 August – Liverpool

Not in North Wales yet, but Liverpool is an ideal place for a stop-over on the way. The hostel is a comfortable place to stay where the staff are friendly and helpful. Directly opposite the restored Albert Docks, once an important port for shipping around the world it is now home to museums, entertainment, shops and residential buildings. The hostel is also only a short walk from the centre of the city and makes a perfect base for exploring the city.

Liverpool Youth Hostel, an ideal location opposite Albert Docks

    A Liver bird sits on top of the Liver building. 

The river Mersey at Albert Dock.
Three weeks from now I will be cycling alongside the Mediterranean sea,
I hope it is a better colour than this!

Liverpool city hall.

8 August - Conwy

I took a train from Liverpool that would take me under the river Mersey to Birkenhead this morning.

From Birkenhead the wind was behind me but after turning into Wales at Connah's Quay I received it's full blast blowing straight in off the Irish sea, and so it was all day.

Most of the route was along the main road into north Wales. It is not a particularly wide road and traffic is very heavy. Coupled with a traffic hold-up in Flint I have not had a particularly good day.

Having said that, I am staying in the hostel at Conwy which is really well fitted out, very comfortable and the view over the mountains are worth the hard climb up the hill to get here.

A bridge carries the cycle route and railway line over the

river Dee at Hawarden

Motorist's get to travel over the river Dee

at Connah's Quay

Traffic jam on the approach to the town of Flint

My first real view of the sea, at Colwyn Bay

The original toll bridge entry to Conwy

Two views of Conwy Castle

The smallest house in Great Britain

Conwy Youth Hostel

Two views to enjoy whilst you eat a meal at

Conwy Youth Hostel

9 August - Llyn Ogwen

After the strain into a headwind yesterday it is good to know I only have around three hours riding to-day.

Moving inland and following the Conwy valley I am pleased that the wind is no longer present. After a hilly few miles I am heading for an attractive looking patch of blue sky. Unfortunately it seems that the black clouds over my shoulder are doing the same thing, at a faster pace than me. The rain forecast for tomorrow has appeared to-day, but not a lot of it. It does however make the temperature drop and I am riding in a long sleeved jacket and leg warmers, it is that cold.

With such a short distance to ride I make a diversion into Betws-y-Coed for lunch. As always this small town is busy with tourists, making the most of the August holiday but not with any warm weather.

After climbing the hilly road out of Betws-y-Coed my ride takes me alongside Llyn (Lake) Ogwen to Idwal Cottage hostel situated on the shore. If you are looking for an ideal location with extremely helpful and friendly staff, this is the hostel for you.

A fine sight in Betws-y-Coed

I'm not sure if I want to stop here for tea

I hope the road to Llyn Ogden goes round the

mountain, not over it!

Llyn Ogwen

Idwal Cottage Youth Hostel

10 August – Llanberis

Although the sun came out for a while early this morning I do not like the look of the low cloud on the hills above the lake.

Again I have a ‘steady’ day to-day with about an hour and a half riding to Llanberis.

The downhill run to Bethesda

I start with an easy ride downhill to Bethesda, the town taking it's name from the local chapel, before a climb out before the final run down to Llanberis.

With such a short ride I find myself kicking my heels for the rest of the day so a drink of hot chocolate with marshmallows together with Welsh cakes and honey are called for.

I visited Padarn Country Park. Once the location of a major slate mine it is now a slate museum and heritage centre.

The effects of extracting slate can be clearly

seen on the mountainside

The inclined plane used to bring slate down from

the mountain

Spoil left over from slate mining

An original narrow-gauge steam locomotive,

now used on the tourist railway

Once again, a first class hostel situated high above the town with amazing mountain views, it's just a pity about the rain.

11 August - Snowdon Pen-y-Pass

Not the best view of the mountains this morning

I woke this morning to torrential rain and faced two choices, either head straight to the hostel at Pen-y-Pass about a 30-minute ride away or ride to the coast at Caernarfon then loop round to Pen-y-Pass. Either way I am going to get cold and wet but if I go to Caernarfon I can then keep riding for most of the day and try to stay warmer.

Caernarfon is about a 45-minute ride away, by the time I arrive the rain has almost stopped, giving me a half-decent chance to have a look around. By the time I leave I am getting even more wet than when I arrived.

Caernarfon Castle

Turn right or go straight ahead - looks complicated either way.

The beach balls and rubber boats look sorry for themselves in the rain

With 16 fairly flat miles to ride, apart from the rain I am quite enjoying myself, along the valley by Llyn Cwellyn and into Beddgelert, by which time a break is called for. There are not many places to eat in Beddgelert, perhaps that is why the place was crowded and the staff did not try very hard.

A fellow cyclist in Beddgelert

Shortly after leaving Beddgelert the final four-mile climb of the day begins, not steep just long. I began to enter low cloud at around 500 metres and by the time I arrived at the hostel I could only just see across the road, no chance of seeing Snowdon at all. As the pictures show, it did clear a short while later, giving a perfect view of this first-class hostel conveniently situated at the foot of Snowdon.

Snowdon Pen y Pass Youth Hostel

12 August – Llyn Cwellyn

In contrast to the weather last night, to-day dawned bright and clear, although by 10.30 the cloud had started to descend again.

View of Snowdon last night

View of Snowdon this morning

I was looking forward to a four-mile freewheel down from 1,200 feet and into Beddgelert but the wind was so strong as I came off the mountain if I stopped pedalling I stopped moving.

Again with only a short distance to travel to-day I was able to spend time in the village of Beddgelert.

River Colwyn, Beddgelert

One of the tourist attractions in the village is the Welsh Highland Railway. Opened in 1922 it had a very short commercial life but enjoys success with visitors.

Built in Manchester, England in 1958 for export to South Africa.
This locomotive was return to England at the end of steam in that
country and restored for use on this tourist railway

Remarkable the people you meet on a cycle tour

Due to the dangerous nature of the landscape and
changing weather conditions a mountain
rescue helicopter is always on stand-by at Rhyd Ddu

It is then a short ride to Llwn Cwellyn and Snowdon Ranger hostel. Prior to becoming a youth hostel the building was lived in by John Morton, said to be the earliest mountain guide to Snowdon and who called himself ‘The Snowdon Ranger’.

Snowdon Ranger Youth Hostel

13 August – Betws-y-Coed

A fine and almost warm day as I make my way once again into Beddgelert – I have now been here three times in three days. The route then takes me along the valley before I turn  at Garreg and start the climb towards Blaenau Ffestiniog. After a three mile climb I appreciate this message on the road!

Once the centre of the huge slate mining industry, there now seems to be only one ‘micro-mine’ operating, with more evidence of the spoil left from a previous era.

More climbing out of the town then it is downhill (almost) all the way to the tourist trap of Betws-y-Coed. It is mid-day as I arrive and am surprised to find the town not as busy as when I was here earlier in the week. The hostel is at the Swallow Falls hotel. The falls themselves being a tourist attraction make for a busy road at this point.

14 August – Borth

After enjoying the final 10-miles of my ride almost all downhill yesterday I really cannot face the prospect of climbing all the way back up this morning. After some –‘navigation on the fly’ I managed to work my way round following the valley floor. As an added ‘bonus’ the route took me once again into Beddgelert – the fourth time in four days!

The road out of Betws-y-Coed, not a car in sight.

The mountains of Snowdonia reflected in the waters of
Llyn Llynaubyr at Capel Curig

Trying to keep up with the pace-car at Tremadog

The off-road route into Dolgellau

Once back on the original route and after a break in Dolgellau I am able to ‘enjoyed’ a hard climb out of the town but was rewarded with a beautiful view over the valley, not one motorists on the main road get to see.

The final turn into Borth, overlooking the Irish sea was hampered by a headwind, but for the last few miles I can manage that.

The hostel here is on the sea-front and from my room I have a view out to sea. Facilities here are first class and the staff are friendly, it is a perfect place to spend a night.

Borth Youth Hostel

The Sea Front

The population seem to like their houses multi-coloured.

Sunset over Borth

15 August – Clun

A journey of three parts to-day, the first two of which were very easy. Firstly a five minute ride to Borth railway station, my final ride in Wales, followed by a one and a half hour train journey to Shrewsbury.

River Severn at Shrewsbury

I had forgotten how hilly Shropshire is. It is a continued case of climbing, climbing, climbing and as the weather for once had turned warm the afternoon was hard work.

Hard climbing but first class views

The village of Bishop's Castle

An interesting choice of house decoration in
Bishop's Castle

Clun Mill hostel is, as the name suggests, a converted flour mill and the setting amidst rolling countryside is idea. After competition from large mills it closed during the 1890's but opened again as a youth hostel in 1932.

It is a place to spend a few days, not as I am, moving on tomorrow.

Clun Mill Youth Hostel

The original mill machinery

16 August - Coalport.

A pleasant day is prospect to-day as I eat breakfast looking over the Shropshire hills.

The view from the breakfast table

The air temperature is ideal for riding and for once the road is in my favour, following the lower parts of the valley I am really enjoying the ride - until the town of Craven Arms. From here the road goes up and down a lot, but not to cause many problems. I decide to take a break at Much Wenlock.

I am soon at Ironbridge looking at the bridge that gave the town it's name. Opened in 1781 it was the worlds first single span cast iron bridge and crosses the river Severn.

My bed for tonight is at Coalport youth hostel, one of the remaining buildings that were originally part of the Coalport China Works, which closed in the 1926.

Coalport China works, showing a kiln and the canal for

bringing fuel and raw materials in and

taking away the finished goods

One of the kilns for firing the china

Coalport Youth Hostel

17 August - Coalport to Leicester
Coalport sits in a valley on the banks of the river Severn, the valley sides are very steep meaning almost from the off this morning I had a lot of climbing. Once out of the valley the hills got further and further apart the closer I got to the industrial area of Birmingham.

Remembering the steel making industry in Dudley.

Canal meets motorway at Oldbury

Not quite the countryside scenery I saw last week

To avoid the main roads I followed the canal path through the city and out the other side. Birmingham has more miles of canals than Venice. At the centre of the city is the modernised Brindley Place, an area to relax, eat, drink and also to live. Many years ago in it's original condition it was known as Gas Street Basin and was a place to keep away from, especially at night. As the city has e been modernised the canals often run beneath the buildings.

Galton Bridge

Galton Tunnel

A heron waits for an unsuspecting fish to provide

it with a snack

 

The entrance to Brindley Place

Once I left the canals and Birmingham's suburbs I was able to cycle through a country park which took me well on the way to Nuneaton from where road-side cycle paths took me almost home to Leicester, with 403.3 miles covered.