I had intended to travel to Cornwall by train but storm damage closed the line early in 2014 and the news was it would not be reopened until late-April or even early-May. For that reason I arranged to drive there. In the event the line reopened early, but which time I was already committed.
Der Mentsh Trakht Un Got Lakht
(A Yiddish proverb which translates as 'Man Plans, God Laughs)
Lets hope he is not laughing too loudly over the next five weeks!
This is only the second time I have driven to the start of a tour and this time it gave me a chance to stay at Street youth hostel in Somerset. A timber chalet it opened in 1914 and became a hostel in 1931. I have read two versions of it's history. The first said it was built to house workers from the near-by Clarke's shoe factory and is the longest continuously operating youth hostel in the world. The second (which is on display at the hotel so is probably correct) is that it was built as a holiday home for local children and is the longest continuously operating hostel outside mainland Europe. It is still owned by the Society of Friends and provides comfortable accommodation in a beautiful setting overlooking orchards and woodland.
Tuesday 29 April
The end of my long drive to-day and back on the bike. Whilst passing through Bodmin I took the chance to visit friends I had not seen for some time. Chris Wallis and Pete Waters are directors of Printbridge, a graphic design and print production company based in the town. It was good to see them again, to catch up on the latest from the world of print and view some of the high-class leaflets, booklets and brochures they produce. For information about their services visit www.printbridge.co.uk
After Bodmin I had a short but hilly ride to Golant hostel, beautifully situated overlooking the river Fowey. What a view from my window.
Wednesday 30 April
After adding two extra nights to the beginning of my tour in
order to drive to Cornwall, to-day I am heading to Perranporth to join the
originally planned route.
A damp and misty start this morning as I climbed the rough and potholed single track road away from Golant hostel. At just under a mile there was nothing to be gained and a lot to be lost by trying to rush it. That is my excuse for a slow start but when I reached the public road I did not seem to be going any faster so perhaps it is not an excuse at all.
I rode through Par and past the port then on to St Austell. So far I have been on main roads which seem to go straight up and over hills. As I turned off on country lanes the roads followed the contours more, giving me easier gradients.
I thought I may be able to tell you that I managed this tour in fine weather but that thought vanished this morning as the rain began to fall as I was about eight miles from Perranporth. Although the rain stopped after about an hour the afternoon was cold and damp, especially along the cliff tops close to the hostel.
Built in the early 1950’s as a research station for the Admiralty and used as a base for the secret study and development of shore-based submarine detection. It opened as a youth hostel in 1982 and must have one of the best sea-views around. A word of warning to cyclists (and probably walkers) if you want to visit this hostel and enjoy the terrific sea views there is a steep hill to climb to get here.
A damp and misty start this morning as I climbed the rough and potholed single track road away from Golant hostel. At just under a mile there was nothing to be gained and a lot to be lost by trying to rush it. That is my excuse for a slow start but when I reached the public road I did not seem to be going any faster so perhaps it is not an excuse at all.
I rode through Par and past the port then on to St Austell. So far I have been on main roads which seem to go straight up and over hills. As I turned off on country lanes the roads followed the contours more, giving me easier gradients.
I thought I may be able to tell you that I managed this tour in fine weather but that thought vanished this morning as the rain began to fall as I was about eight miles from Perranporth. Although the rain stopped after about an hour the afternoon was cold and damp, especially along the cliff tops close to the hostel.
Built in the early 1950’s as a research station for the Admiralty and used as a base for the secret study and development of shore-based submarine detection. It opened as a youth hostel in 1982 and must have one of the best sea-views around. A word of warning to cyclists (and probably walkers) if you want to visit this hostel and enjoy the terrific sea views there is a steep hill to climb to get here.
Thursday 1 May
After the changes I had to make to get here, to-day I am ‘back on course’. I am wrapped up against the cold and the wind as I leave Perranporth this morning but after two miles of riding up hill to get out of the town I am beginning to feel quite warm. Hill climbing seems to be the order of the day to-day, the first four miles takes me 32 minutes and I have only covered nine miles in the first hour.
The route takes me towards Wadebridge where I have to join the main road for a nine mile ride to the town. It is not pleasant at all. It is busy, not very wide and I have to contend with rain and cross-winds.
At one point I meet a cyclist who I met two days ago at Golant. We talked about the hilly terrain and her description was ‘challenging’.
The cloud is coming down as I approach Boscastle, I am passing wind turbines but I cannot see the tops of them.
The final approach to Boscastle is two miles of steep downhill, so steep in fact that I have to stop twice to rest my arms from pulling on the brakes. The village name derives from 'Bottreux Castle' the remains of which can be seen overlooking the harbour.
The hostel here on the harbour side is fully restored after the floods of 2004 when waters reached to first floor level. Pictures on display in the hostel show the single storey building next door completely submerged and water pouring out of the hostel’s upstairs windows. The traditional exterior of the building gives no clue to the ultra-modern interior after the restoration.
After the changes I had to make to get here, to-day I am ‘back on course’. I am wrapped up against the cold and the wind as I leave Perranporth this morning but after two miles of riding up hill to get out of the town I am beginning to feel quite warm. Hill climbing seems to be the order of the day to-day, the first four miles takes me 32 minutes and I have only covered nine miles in the first hour.
The route takes me towards Wadebridge where I have to join the main road for a nine mile ride to the town. It is not pleasant at all. It is busy, not very wide and I have to contend with rain and cross-winds.
At one point I meet a cyclist who I met two days ago at Golant. We talked about the hilly terrain and her description was ‘challenging’.
The cloud is coming down as I approach Boscastle, I am passing wind turbines but I cannot see the tops of them.
The final approach to Boscastle is two miles of steep downhill, so steep in fact that I have to stop twice to rest my arms from pulling on the brakes. The village name derives from 'Bottreux Castle' the remains of which can be seen overlooking the harbour.
The hostel here on the harbour side is fully restored after the floods of 2004 when waters reached to first floor level. Pictures on display in the hostel show the single storey building next door completely submerged and water pouring out of the hostel’s upstairs windows. The traditional exterior of the building gives no clue to the ultra-modern interior after the restoration.
Did the owner need planning consent to paint the cottage pink or is it a Cornish tradition?
Friday 2 May
In contrast to yesterday the to-day is clear and sunny, ready for me to ride a Cornish Coast-to-Coast (CC2C?) or is it B2B? Boscastle to Boswinger. Whatever it is called, I have to ride the 50 miles from the Irish Sea in the north (my GPS mapping calls it the ‘Celtic Sea’. How did they get that?), the Atlantic Ocean in the south.
If I thought I had a difficult ride out of Perranporth yesterday it is nothing compared with to-days start. The route I planned to use was the same one I used to arrive yesterday, the ‘Old Road’. The downhill ride was hard enough, I am not going to tackle it going up, I think the detour up the ‘New Road’ (imaginative names) will be well worth the short extra distance. Just over two and a quarter miles takes me half an hour – I hope the day gets better.
After passing through Camelford to Blisland I pick up the ‘Camel Trial’ a disused railway line converted to a cycle trail which takes me a pleasant eight miles following the river Camel to Bodmin. Now - which bike to use?
In contrast to yesterday the to-day is clear and sunny, ready for me to ride a Cornish Coast-to-Coast (CC2C?) or is it B2B? Boscastle to Boswinger. Whatever it is called, I have to ride the 50 miles from the Irish Sea in the north (my GPS mapping calls it the ‘Celtic Sea’. How did they get that?), the Atlantic Ocean in the south.
If I thought I had a difficult ride out of Perranporth yesterday it is nothing compared with to-days start. The route I planned to use was the same one I used to arrive yesterday, the ‘Old Road’. The downhill ride was hard enough, I am not going to tackle it going up, I think the detour up the ‘New Road’ (imaginative names) will be well worth the short extra distance. Just over two and a quarter miles takes me half an hour – I hope the day gets better.
After passing through Camelford to Blisland I pick up the ‘Camel Trial’ a disused railway line converted to a cycle trail which takes me a pleasant eight miles following the river Camel to Bodmin. Now - which bike to use?
As I ride along I
keep using parts of Sustrans Route 3, both on quiet country lanes and more
traffic-free routes. The route takes me past the Eden Project, a project to
create sustainable gardens, both outside and under what are claimed to be the
world’s largest greenhouses. These gardens are ‘a journey around the world’
from Mediterranean to rainforest.
Saturday 2 May
An easier start this morning followed by a downhill run to sea-level. Unfortunately, what goes up must come down, or down then up to-day, meaning an undulating ride to Truro. I had intended to avoid the city but the flat three mile ride along the main road was much easier than the hilly alternative I had planned. It also gave me a chance to update this blog in the city library. Once out of the city I once again travelled alongside the river Truro, but this time on the opposite bank heading away from the city. After a cross-country journey I was back on the main road towards Lizard but turned off to pass through the village of Gweek and quiet lanes all the way. Well – that was the plan. The road out of Gweek I had chosen must have been one of the steepest hills I have ever almost ridden. A road sign at the foot said ‘Lizard 10 miles’ and pointed along a valley road. Having had enough of hills at this point the valley road it was.
Lizard Point is the most southerly point of the mainland British Isles, for a few moments I was the most southerly person, after which it was into the café for hot chocolate and a toasted tea-cake!
An easier start this morning followed by a downhill run to sea-level. Unfortunately, what goes up must come down, or down then up to-day, meaning an undulating ride to Truro. I had intended to avoid the city but the flat three mile ride along the main road was much easier than the hilly alternative I had planned. It also gave me a chance to update this blog in the city library. Once out of the city I once again travelled alongside the river Truro, but this time on the opposite bank heading away from the city. After a cross-country journey I was back on the main road towards Lizard but turned off to pass through the village of Gweek and quiet lanes all the way. Well – that was the plan. The road out of Gweek I had chosen must have been one of the steepest hills I have ever almost ridden. A road sign at the foot said ‘Lizard 10 miles’ and pointed along a valley road. Having had enough of hills at this point the valley road it was.
Lizard Point is the most southerly point of the mainland British Isles, for a few moments I was the most southerly person, after which it was into the café for hot chocolate and a toasted tea-cake!
 |
| Lizard Point and the most southerly bike on the mainland British Isles |
The hostel here is adjacent to the lighthouse and is the
most southerly inhabited building, giving an opportunity to view a magnificent
sunset over the sea.
Sunday 4 May
Leaving the Lizard behind I have a bright and sunny morning as I make my way towards Penzance, passing through the pretty Cornish town of Helston, passing traditional stone-built Cornish houses and along it’s steep main street – luckily going down. I also pass St Michaels Mount off the coast at Marazion. Built as a Benedictine Priory in 1135 it has also been a church, a fortress and a private house. It is possible to walk to the Mount at low tide.
Leaving the Lizard behind I have a bright and sunny morning as I make my way towards Penzance, passing through the pretty Cornish town of Helston, passing traditional stone-built Cornish houses and along it’s steep main street – luckily going down. I also pass St Michaels Mount off the coast at Marazion. Built as a Benedictine Priory in 1135 it has also been a church, a fortress and a private house. It is possible to walk to the Mount at low tide.
From Penzance it was a ride direct to Lands End to complete
my tour of Cornwall after a total of just over 221 and a half miles.
